METROFOODS

Formal table setting

Old bungalow into a minimalist restaurant and brought refined, very modern cooking to Salt Lake City. The $49 three-course menu might include excellent anise-spiced elk, but the best dish is one of the amuse bouches: a sliver of scallop sashimi with lightly sweet Meyer lemon confit, crunchy toasted buckwheat kernels and—pushing it over the top—tiny pieces of compressed apple, vacuum-packed to concentrate the flavor.

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